Article by HouseLogic By Jeanne Huber Published 08/18/16

A roof replacement is one of the biggest financial commitments a homeowner will make, so here’s a guide to roofing materials that will help you spend your money wisely.

Replacing a roof is a substantial undertaking, with an average cost of $7,600 for an asphalt roof, “2015 Remodeling Impact Report” from the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®. The price jumps if you upgrade to standing-seam metal and better quality underlayment and flashing.

But while you might get more immediate pleasure from those upgrades, they can’t compare to the long-term value of a solid, attractive, and leak-free roof. About three-quarters of homeowners get new roofs not because they want to but because they have to. If you’re one of them, here’s a guide to your options.

How Roofing Materials Are Sold

Most roofing is sold by the “square,” enough to cover 100 square feet of roof area. Our sample house — a typical two-story, 2,300-square-foot house with a medium-pitch roof — has a roof area of about 1,500 square feet. Double that if the house is only one story. Note: All costs are approximate.

Composition Shingles

Commonly called asphalt shingles, these are the most popular residential roofing material in the country. Most products consist of a fiberglass mat between two layers of asphalt. Tiny stones embedded in the top help protect the shingles from the sun’s damaging rays.

Basic three-tab shingles have slits in the front, so each piece looks like three small shingles. Architectural shingles are a more upscale choice. They are thicker, longer-lasting, and don’t have slits where debris can collect. They also create a more textured look, which many people prefer.

Benefits: Relatively inexpensive, and all roofers know how to install them. Good fire resistance. Some types are suitable for hail regions and available with wind warranties up to 130 mph. May contain zinc or copper to inhibit algae growth.

Drawbacks: Typically last only 20 years and need periodic cleaning to remove moss and debris.

Green factor: Some types have a reflective coating that can lower cooling costs. Though theoretically recyclable, most worn shingles end up in landfills.

Cost per square foot: $2-$4, installed

Average two-story, 2,300 square foot house, including removal of one layer of roofing: $7,000

Wood Shingles and Shakes

Traditional and beautiful, wood is no longer as popular because quality has declined, and because of rising concerns about fire. Shakes are thick and have a rough, split surface; shingles are thinner and sawn flat. Both types must be installed over spaced boards, not solid sheathing, so the roofing can dry.

Benefits: In dry climates, shakes and shingles perform well; some shakes have up to a 50-year warranty. Thicker shakes can be used where hail is severe.

Drawbacks: Not fire-resistant unless treated, so some building codes prohibit them. Thinner products can be damaged by hail. In wet climates, wood must be cleaned periodically to remove moss and lichen.

Green factor: Roof-quality shakes are cut from old-growth trees. Worn-out roofing can be recycled into mulch, provided it hasn’t been treated with pesticide.

Cost per square foot: $5-$12, installed

Average two-story, 2,300 square foot house, including removal of one layer of roofing: $17,200.

Metal Panels and Tiles

Once found mostly on commercial and farm buildings, metal roofing is now the fastest-growing residential roofing material. There are two basic kinds: standing-seam panels and tiles. Panels come in pieces around 16 inches wide and up to 20 feet long, so they reach without a seam from the ridge to the gutters. Metal tiles can mimic the look of wood shingles or shakes.

Benefits: Extremely long-lasting; some come with lifetime warranties. Good fire resistance, and some styles are strong enough to resist wind and heavy hail. Panels go up quickly and require little maintenance.

Drawbacks: Higher initial cost than composition shingles. Tile roofs have numerous grooves that trap leaves, so they need frequent cleaning.

Green factor: Styles with reflective coatings reduce cooling demand by 10% to 15% and can qualify for a federal energy efficiency tax credit of up to $500.

Cost per square foot: $3.50-$11, installed

Average two-story, 2,300 square foot house, including removal of one layer of roofing: $16,800.

Clay or Concrete Tiles

Red clay tiles are an essential feature of Spanish-style homes in much of the Southwest and Florida. In addition to traditional styles, clay and concrete tiles can mimic wooden shingles or shakes, while others look almost like slate.

Benefits: Long-lasting; some manufacturers offer lifetime warranties. Well-suited to relatively dry climates, and will not burn.

Drawbacks: Heavy, so the roof structure must be able to support the weight. They can be damaged by hail. Concrete tiles are moss magnets in damp climates; use glazed tiles instead.

Green factor: Long-lasting clay and concrete tiles can be reused and eventually recycled into new building materials.

Cost per square foot: $5.50-$10.50, installed

Average two-story, 2,300 square foot house, including removal of one layer of roofing: $17,500

Slate

Quarried in the Northeast and Virginia, slate is much more common in the East than in the West. Because slates hang from nails and are not glued down, they are best suited for fairly steep roofs that shed water quickly.

Benefits: Slate can last for decades, doesn’t burn, and sheds snow and rain well.

Drawbacks: Slate is expensive and requires skill to install and repair, which can be an issue where such roofs are rare. The roof structure must be able to support the heavy weight.

Green factor: Slate is a natural material, and slicing it into shingles requires little energy. If a building with a slate roof is torn down, the slates can be reused.

Cost per square foot: $10-$20, installed

Average two-story, 2,300 square foot house, including removal of one layer of roofing: $29,300.

Article by HouseLogic By: Jeanne Huber Published: August 18, 2016

Whether your roof is brand-new or years old, here’s what you need to do to keep it in the best possible shape for the longest possible time.

A new roof is an expensive proposition — $18,800 on average for composition shingles, according to Remodeling magazine’s Cost Vs. Value Report, and as much as $36,000 for high-end materials. Once you’ve made that kind of investment, you’ll want to protect it.

And even if your roof is years old, maintaining it in good shape will prolong its life and keep you from having to replace it prematurely. Here’s what you need to do to get the most from your roof.

Clean the Gutters

Ruined paint on siding and a wet basement are typical problems caused by clogged gutters, but it might surprise you to learn that the overflow can also go upward. When leaves pile too deeply in gutters, water can wick into roof sheathing and rot it, or even rot roof rafters.

Fixing that kind of damage could run into the thousands of dollars, but you can avoid it by cleaning your gutters each fall and spring. Do it yourself in a few hours if you’re comfortable working on a ladder, or hire a pro for $50-$250, depending on house size.

Related: Fast Fixes for Common Gutter Problems

Remove Leaves

If you have a simple peaked roof surrounded by low landscaping, your roof probably stays clear of leaves on its own. But if the roof is more complicated or if towering trees are nearby, piles of leaves probably collect in roof valleys or near chimneys. If you don’t remove them, they will trap moisture and gradually decompose, allowing moisture to accumulate in your roof — or worse, create fertile ground for weeds to grow.

If you have a low-slope roof and a one-story house, you may be able to pull the leaves down with a soft car-washing brush on a telescoping pole. Or you can use a specialty tool like a roof leaf rake, which costs about $20. A leaf blower gets the job done too, especially on dry leaves, but you or a pro needs to go up on the roof to use it.

If leaves are too wet or too deep, you might need to wash them off with a garden hose. Don’t use a pressure washer, which can force water up under the shingles.

Get Rid of Moss

In much of the country, composition roofs often become covered with black algae. Although unsightly, this filmy growth doesn’t hurt the roof. A little chlorine bleach or detergent mixed with water will kill it, but it’s safer for both you and the roof to just leave it alone.

If you live in the Northwest, you’re likely to find moss growing on your roof, particularly on wood or composition shingles. Moss, which looks more three-dimensional than algae, needs to go because it traps water. If you tackle it early enough, you can just sweep it off.

If there’s a lot of buildup, you may need to kill the moss first. The Washington Toxics Coalition recommends using products based on potassium salts of fatty acids rather than more toxic formulas with zinc sulfate. Even so, apply the soap only where moss is growing, and try to keep the wash water from getting into storm drains.

Once the roof is clean and free of moss, consider investing in zinc strips to keep it from coming back. For about $300, a roofer will install strips near the top of the roof. When it rains, the runoff from the strips inhibits the growth of moss. It’s effective and more environmentally friendly than treating the entire roof with pesticide, as long as you don’t live near a stream or a lake where the runoff can harm aquatic life.

Trim Overhanging Branches

A little prevention in the form of tree-trimming goes a long way toward keeping leaves and moss off your roof and keeping your roof damage-free. Abrasion from limbs and leaves that touch your roof can eventually damage shingles, especially in high winds.

Overhanging branches also give squirrels and other rodents access to your roof. They can gnaw on your roof and siding. Branches need to be 10 feet away from your roof to keep these pests at bay. If that’s not possible, wrap the tree trunk with a sheet-metal bank to prevent them from climbing the tree.

Trimming branches that hang over the roof is a job for a pro, though, or you might cause more damage than you prevent.

Related: The Best Trees for Your Yard

Prevent Ice Dams

If you’re plagued by ice buildup on the roof, removing some or all of the snow between storms might forestall leaks into your house. Don’t try to pry off ice that’s already formed, since that could damage the roof. Use a roof rake to dislodge snow within three or four feet of the gutters. Get a telescoping pole and work from the ground, if possible. If you must be on a ladder, work at an angle so the falling snow doesn’t push you over.

Inadequate insulation and air leaks into your attic greatly increase the risk of ice dams, so once the storms pass, address those problems, too.

Look and Listen

After every big wind or hail storm, or if you’ve heard scurrying on the roof at night, give your roof a quick check to make sure everything’s still intact.

Look for:

  • Curling, loose, or missing shingles
  • Damaged flashing around vents, chimneys, skylights, and other openings

If anything seems amiss, ask a roofer to inspect ASAP. Most problems are fairly easy to fix, but if you put them off and water gets in, the damage and costs escalate.

TIP: You don’t have to climb a ladder to inspect your roof. You can use binoculars.